The Traveling Sisters Best Travel Tips

The Traveling Sisters
Best Travel Tips

Traveling abroad is always an adventure – visiting new sites, eating new foods, meeting different people and walking in new cities absorbing local culture. It’s always so exciting and memorable. But of course, with this excitement there is also perhaps the fear of the unknown – what to expect, what you need to bring, how to behave according to local customs, how to not stick out as a tourist etc.  These questions often cause many travelers (even seasoned pros) to catapult themselves into an anxiety induced tizzy.  But fear not! We have some great tips and tricks to help guide you through your travels from start to finish with packing ideas through even how to order coffee. So check out our below travel tips list and set your mind at ease.

Packing Lists – pack light! Having to lug around massive and heavy suitcases in cars or on trains is not ideal so do yourself a favor and think multi-function layers in some neutral tones so it’s easy to mix and match multiple outfits from just a few key pieces. There is no luggage service for train travel so you will have to load and unload your own suitcases so the less heavy items you have, the better.

Also do not underestimate the need for VERY comfortable shoes – Italy is very much a walking country, so you’ll be getting your steps in. In cities like Rome especially it’s not uncommon to get anywhere from 15k-20k steps in per day!

(Personal tip from someone who used to avidly and confidently wear stilettos daily – do NOT try and wear these walking around during the day. It’s one thing to be fashionable and another thing to sprain your ankle and end up in the hospital because your heel got stuck in the cobblestones. Wear heels at your own risk!)

If you need some ideas about what to pack including electronics or other items to make your travel experience more successful, check out or shopping list here as well.

Churches anyone? Don’t forget a shawl or something to cover your shoulders as this will be required to enter. Sometimes they will even make you cover your knees if your shorts or dresses are too short. A lot of churches will have coverups you can buy for a euro or 2 but if you plan on visiting multiple cathedrals on your trip, it’s best to have something handy.

Carry tissues / wipes / hand sanitizer – a lot of bathrooms don’t always have toilet paper. ESPECIALLY on the beach as most bathrooms on public beaches are just a hole in the ground so you’ll be thanking yourself for always carrying tissues and sanitizer around!

Carry loose change and 1-euro coins – speaking of bathrooms, some public ones at rest stops, train stations, beaches etc will require you to pay a small fee to use the bathrooms and no they don’t accept apple pay or credit cards so make sure you always have a few one euro coins handy.

Avoid scams – while walking around don’t let people give you anything (like bracelets, pamphlets, artwork, etc.) as they will then try to get you to buy whatever it is they gave you. Just say “No grazie” as you are being approached and keep walking. If you see someone who looks like they are peddling some goods, and they seemingly drop something on the floor – don’t pick it up thinking you are being helpful – it’s part of the scam and they will then ask you to buy what you picked up. Most will just leave you alone after you say no and walk away but some might keep asking and follow you a few steps – don’t be alarmed they are just trying to make a sale, they’re not going to hurt you in any way!

Mostly in Florence – be mindful of where you walk as there are artists that paint and draw on the streets and if you disturb or ruin their artwork they will get angry and demand payment for the damages.

Don’t make yourself a pick pocket target – pick pocketers walk around listening for people speaking languages other than Italian so stay aware of your surroundings – don’t walk around distracted on your phone, keep all handbags and backpacks closed, don’t wear backpacks on your back, don’t carry large bags, if sitting outside for a drink or meal don’t leave your phone on the table or your bag on the floor or hanging on the chair streetside. We advocate for common sense here – do as your parents taught you and don’t talk to strangers.

Be informed of locations – you should have a general idea of where you are and where you are going and the distances between locations, sites, cities etc. so make sure to look things up before you arrive so you aren’t feeling lost or overwhelmed in the moment you must get somewhere. Google maps is your best friend.

Wear Sunscreen – even if it’s not a beach day, the sun is strong and hot and you will burn.

Stay hydrated – summer is HOT in Italy and with all the walking you will do it’s important to not dehydrate. In Rome especially you don’t need to buy plastic water bottles over and over again – just carry a collapsible bottle with you and you can fill it up at any of the “nasone” famous in Rome that have fresh delicious water from the ancient aqueducts. Yes, this water is absolutely potable.

Air Conditioning – understand that AC in Italy (and Europe in general) is not standard and is not the same level as American AC. Many sites or museums may not have AC and if they do trust us, you don’t really feel it especially in the throngs of summer crowds. Lodgings also may not have the same strength AC you are used to in the states, and they may control the temp at the front desk of the hotel or shut if off during the day when they know you are not in the room. This is STANDARD and there is nothing you can do about it. Apartments that list having AC may in fact have it, but not necessarily in each of the rooms, so make sure you understand the listing before booking.

Restaurant Cover Charges (called “coperto”) – while tipping culture is very different and not expected at restaurants (maybe a few euro) it is STANDARD to be charged a “coperto” of anywhere from 1-3 euro per person depending on the type of restaurant, level of restaurant or type of meal – this will be included on the bill and is fixed, there is no negotiating this or disputing this charge so be aware of this.

We hope that these tips and tricks will help ease any of your travel anxieties so that you can have the most enjoyable experience while traveling our beautiful home country! And when all else fails, we just always say to remember the rules our parents all taught us – don’t talk to strangers and use common sense!

Pancia Piena – Live, Love, Lemons

PANCIA PIENA
Live, Love, Lemons.

The time has come to end our culinary journey (for now) with the beauty of the Amalfi Coast. A part of Italy whose beauty is surpassed by only a few places in the world, it’s a spectacle for the eyes to behold and for the stomach to love. You can’t talk about arguably the most famous coast in the world without taking note of the food culture that is very specific to the small towns dotting the coastline. Two of these towns, Amalfi and Sorrento, are famous for their lemons. They’re big, they’re juicy and they’re delicious. And they are used as a primary ingredient in dishes for any and every part of the meal – from pasta to seafood to dessert, you’ll find few traditional recipes that don’t include the use of lemons in some way or another.

Our two favorite spots in Positano both for stunning views and wonderful food are absolute musts – if you can get a reservation! La Tagliata (now social media famous for its wild cooking class that is impossible to get in to) and Il Ritrovo, both in Positano. Another hidden gem in the smaller and slightly less famous town of Praiano is a little family owned restaurant called La Strada known for authentic local cuisine with fresh ingredients and delicious calamari with, of course, lemons.

If you don’t like lemons, fret not, these zesty treasures aren’t the coast’s only claim to fame – instead you can try Spaghetti alle Vongole, Calamari, and don’t leave without eating Gnocchi alla Sorrentina. A great place in Sorrento to stop in is Ristorante Bagni Delfino to explore these local culinary treats presented by 3 generations of the family that first founded.

And with this we have come to the end of our gastronomic journey (for now) and will leave you with full stomachs and hearts until we pick back up with new and different regions for our stomachs to explore! Until then, Buon Appetito e Salute!

Pancia Piena – Eating “light” in Milano

PANCIA PIENA
Eating “light” in Milano

Time for some beef! But we don’t mean the meat. Historically there has been friction between Northern and Southern Italy – not only political and ideological differences but also a passionate disagreement about whether the northern regions of Italy have better ingredients, taste and food than the southern regions. We’re not here to take on this battle (even though as southern Italians we know we win), we love to eat wherever we are and appreciate all the different types of cuisines and ingredients that the various parts of the country have to offer. While southern cuisine is known more for slightly heavier, richer, tomato or meat-based sauces and dishes, Northern Italy and Milano are more known for “lighter” meats and dishes, lighter sauces and of course three main dishes of Risotto Milanese, Cotoletta Milanese (breaded cutlet that can be veal or chicken) and Osso Buco (veal that is traditionally served with risotto).

You have all probably eaten one or all these dishes at one time or another as they make appearances on many menus worldwide but of course you can’t miss eating them on their home turf. A great place to try any of these is Il Tavolino or also Il Fortino. If your tastes are a bit more casual and you’re mostly interested in aperitivo culture and cool vibes, then we highly suggest hanging out in the Navigli Canal district of Milano where you can get great spritzes (duh!) and smaller bites at local places like Le Vigne or Spritz Navigli Milano.

A special shoutout also must go to Milano for being the founding city of the Negroni Sbagliato. This drink has become much more popular over the last year or so in the States (thanks social media for thinking you discover everything) and if you’re in Milano you can’t leave without going to Bar Basso which is where this drink was first birthed. A traditional Negroni will use gin as its alcohol base, but the Sbagliato uses prosecco. So, if you’re not a gin lover this alternative is perfect for you. So, get your drink on and stay sauced as we head back down south in our next edition and swoon over the deliciousness of the Amalfi Coast.

Pancia Piena – Eating Venice, Cicchetti Style

PANCIA PIENA
EATING VENICE, CICCHETTI STYLE

Oh, the magic of Venice! With its 118 islands and over 400 bridges, it certainly is a walker’s paradise. Beautiful historic buildings and centuries old markets, gondolas with charismatic singing gondolieri, canal front cafés where you can spend aperitivo hour watching to see if someone will fall out of their gondola headfirst into the grand canal. There’s just so much to see and do in Venice that you might overlook trying some of the most the unique and ancient street food Italy has to offer. But fret not, that’s why this installment of the Pancia Piena! blog will focus on Venetian cuisine in all its glory!

As we all know, aperitivo culture in Italy is a dominant force of nature with each city putting its own style and flair into their offerings. In Venice, it’s no different – except for the name! “Cicchetti” is what you eat for aperitivo, and “Bacaro” are the little wine bars where you eat them. These small bites pack a punch of lagoon flavor. You won’t see mini pizzas or potato chips here like you do in other cities. Instead, you’ll find items like Baccala Mantecato on fried polenta or locally fished lagoon shrimp (small and sweet!) or some local fried fish bites. One of the best places to sample these items is Bacarando in Corte dell’Orso that has a restaurant but also its own “Cicchetteria” or Cantina Do Spade with their fried specialties.

For a main meal, if you’re looking for an off the path, hidden local treasure that used to be an old historic boat house, then you must try Vecia Cavana for lunch or dinner. With its traditional venetian menu and flavors, this locale will give you all the non-touristy vibes you need. Another local gem in Dorsoduro is Ristorante Cantinone Storico – set yourself at an outdoor table on the small canal and enjoy your view with a serving of their delicious Branzino.

For more bourgeois vibes, we love to sit, and people watch on the grand canal at Gio’s Restaurant & Terrace at the St. Regis. A little less traditional and local, but the location and vibe can’t be beat! It’s worth going at sunset especially if you can snag a table right on the canal.

And of course, you can’t have a day in Italy go by without eating gelato so you can try your luck with lines at Suso or try and stop by one of our favorites Gelateria Gallonetto for true artisanal delights.

We’ve been eating our way through Rome, Florence and Venice, but we’re still hungry! See you next in Milano!

Pancia Piena – Southern Italy in New York

PANCIA PIENA
SOUTHERN ITALY IN NEW YORK

There is arguably no bigger or more important day of the year – food-wise, customs-wise and traditions-wise – for Italians, than Christmas Eve! – the famous night where you gorge yourself on various types of fish (sorry vegetarians and meat eaters, this night is not for you), while drinking too much Prosecco and explaining to your American friends that no, you’re not yelling, that’s just how we talk. 
But for us personally, there is another night just as important, if not more so than Christmas Eve. It’s what we in the Perretta household call “Dough Night”.
This is a food festival galore that we host usually a few days before Christmas Eve. On this night we “open” our stomachs in preparation for the Eve feast by, you guessed it, eating. A lot. 
Most of our family and friends back home in Italy no longer do this. But we have not missed Dough Night one single time over the decades since we’ve been living in the U.S.

So, you may ask: What is Dough night? Well, it’s as it sounds – a night filled with dough, and lots of it.  We spend hours during the day making an embarrassingly large quantity of dough that we later deep fry and enjoy for dinner. No big deal, right? Wrong! This is a very special potato-based dough used to make “pettole”, which are customary to make only around Christmas. So, we only get to eat these once a year. Hence the overeating. Get ‘em while they’re hot, because once they’re gone you won’t see them for another 365 days. Years ago, our mom passed down to Teresa the dough making task and we are all proud of big sis for her exceptional kneading skills!
We eat these pettole on their own like bread, or cut them open and make sandwiches with prosciutto, salami, provolone. And not to be missed is our homemade mozzarella (thanks to our dear friend Richie who has become part of our traditions over the years).

But wait, there’s more. We don’t slave away all day only to make fried dough for savory sandwiches.  We obviously need other dough to fry for sweets because we wouldn’t be good Italian eaters without a follow up dessert.
So, we have a second batch of dough that we use to make stuffed, fried ravioli cookies known in our hometown dialect as “cavezuncidd” – or in real Italian, “Calzoncelli”. And, oh my god, are these the best stuffed cookies sent down from heaven that you have ever tasted. The stuffing? Oh, nothing crazy… just dark chocolate batter made with boiled chestnuts, sugar and cooked red wine. Mamma still has the monopoly on making this filling because… Why mess with the best?  She also passes the dough through the pasta maker to create the sheets that we then, in proper assembly line formation, place the chocolate stuffing into carefully, in order to create these perfectly delicious ravioli desserts.
First, we stuff the cookies, then we fry them to a perfect golden color and then, of course, we stuff ourselves.

The basis of Dough Night is food-and-drink focused (as are most things with Italians) but, most importantly, it’s about maintaining traditions and creating memories, year after year, with family and also the friends we’ve adopted along the way. We often have more people with us at Dough Night than we do Christmas Eve, as it’s become a bit of a to do. Over the years, this special night has grown in fame with many vying for an invite to witness this spectacle firsthand. Being the good Italian hosts we are, we try to include as many as possible without it getting out of hand! Because is there anything better than cooking, eating and drinking with those you love the most? Ovviamente no! Buon Natale a tutti. See you next year amici.

Pancia Piena – Eating like a Florentine – the famous bistecca and beyond

PANCIA PIENA
EATING LIKE A FLORENTINE

Welcome to our 2nd installment of our Pancia Piena! blog series. If you thought Rome sounded delightfully delicious, put on your stretchy elastic waistband pants and buckle up in your Fiat 500 because we’re heading north to Florence. This stunning capital city of Tuscany (Giovanna’s favorite city in the entire world, where she also lived and studied) is not only rich in art, history and fashion but for foodies it’s the setting for some of the world’s most famous culinary treasures.

Where to begin….how about the famous Bistecca Fiorentina?!
If you’re a vegetarian sit tight, we’ll get to you in a minute. For the loud and proud carnivores, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better steak anywhere else in the country. It’s big (always meant to share for at least 2 people), it’s juicy and it will melt in your mouth. But beware, any traditional location will NOT ask you how you want this steak cooked – it comes as rare as it can without it still mooing and most restaurants will not allow you to order it any other way as it would ruin the intended consistency and integrity of the flavor. Trust the process, please. Our favorite places to try this delectable delight are Trattoria Bordino, Ristorante Perseus and La Giostra (for the latter two you absolutely need reservations).

Next of course we must talk about pasta. In any city in Italy, you will always have plenty of options but in Florence and the Tuscany region will you find the most unbelievably delicious pasta with truffles (black truffles in the summer or white truffles in the fall/winter). We’re going to keep you at Trattoria Bordino for this as well but another of our favorites is also Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco. This location also boasts another regional specialty of wild boar sauce (“cinghiale” in Italian means boar, so yes you should try that here too).

Let’s move onto a couple of dishes that perhaps you’ve never heard of that are equally as important for your palate to experience. Two dishes that are great to eat in the colder months are Ribollita and Pappa al Pomodoro. Both dishes have their origins as “peasant” food with the main ingredient being day old bread. But don’t let that fool you. These hearty stews combine the bread with delicious ingredients like cabbage or chard, beans, tomatoes, carrots and the freshest olive oil to make a very filling and satisfying meal. Our favorite places to try these very local dishes are Trattoria ZàZà and Trattoria Marione.

And no meal would be complete with gelato obviously, so make sure to stop by La Strega Nocciola (our favorite location is the one by the Ponte Vecchio). Yes, there is also Vivoli if you want to get your Insta photos but if you’re like us and don’t care to wait on an hour long line to get your “cono al cioccolato fondente e limone” (one of our favorite flavor combos) then you’ll probably avoid going to this specific location.

Stay hungry amici, we’ll head to the east coast and visit Venice to explore her culinary treasures next!

Pancia Piena – Eat Like a Roman

PANCIA PIENA
EAT LIKE A ROMAN

Who doesn’t love to stuff their faces with delicious drool-worthy food? For us, that’s always a top priority! Cuisine is such an important part of travel-learning about new foods and flavors, diving into local specialties, exploring off-the-trail restaurants where you sit with locals who don’t speak English. These kinds of experiences truly make traveling a joyous learning experience and helps you feel like less of a tourist. Leave your desire for cheeseburgers at home and let us show you how to eat like a local.

Whether it’s exploring new locales in Italy or anywhere, our noses are in a constant state of curiosity, sniffing out the best places to explore new local culinary treats. Sharing a meal with family and great friends is what Italians are known for. So it’s our goal to share our delicious homeland favorites with you.

While reading this series, make sure to have a napkin handy to wipe the drool from your mouth. Trust us.

Welcome to our blog Pancia Piena! (Full Belly!) You will learn about different foods from regions and cities throughout Italy and see recommendations for our favorite local spots.

Buon Appetito!

ROME

We all know Rome is famous for their carbonara but let’s talk about a few other delights that you might not now about.

Gricia? Suppli? Maritozzi? Oh my!

Now most restaurants will have all the famous Roman pasta dishes on their menus so if you’re in the mood for carbs you can’t go wrong with…carbonara (with egg yolk and Parmigiano and don’t forget this is not made with cream!), amatriciana with the best San Marzano tomatoes and pancetta, cacio e pepe (black pepper lovers this one is for you) and gricia with guanciale (pork cheek) and pecorino, our favorite salty cheese.
One of our favorite spots to carb load in Rome is Ristorante al 34 in Campo Marzio where you can eat these traditional Roman dishes in a gorgeous cobblestone street just steps away from the Spanish Steps.
We also love Armando al Pantheon. But plan ahead for this small family run restaurant and make a reservation.

If you’re looking for some other types of tasty delights, try some of these…
Suppli – the OGs of arancini (rice balls). They are made with risotto and not just boiled rice and can have various kinds of filling like traditional tomato sauce and mozzarella or plain cheese or cacio and pepe or even flavors of the traditional pasta dishes. You can find these at Trapizzino in Trastevere, one of our favorite neighborhoods in Rome.
This locale is also known for another local specialty that we obsess over called the “trapizzino”. This is a triangular shaped “pizza pocket” and a very famous local street food in Rome. These pizza pockets are stuffed with a variety of fillings including the traditional pasta flavors of Rome. Do yourself a favor and try at least 2 different kinds!
Pssst – this is also a stop on our favorite food tour in Rome so make sure to ask about this if we’re planning a trip for you.

For Pizza we don’t go to Rome without stopping by Pizzarium in Prati.
Drool-worthy and unique offering of pizza made by Itay’s famous Gabriele Bonci.

Dessert anyone? If you have a sweet tooth like us, it’s not only about having a gelato after lunch or dinner or between visiting museums or taking shopping breaks or for aperitivo or…well ok boy do we love gelato! BUT before you get to eating 5 gelato a day, for breakfast try a local specialty called Moritozzi for a casual diabetes inducing pastry from Regoli Paticceria.

But of course, if you want to stick with gelato (duh!) you have to stop by Verde Pistacchio in Monti.
You know the gelato is good because it’s covered in the metal cylinders!
Pssst – they also run our favorite gelato making class in Rome so make sure to ask about this if we’re planning a trip for you.

If you’re not drooling yet then we haven’t done a good job of making you hungry, so stay tuned for the next Pancia Piena installment that will focus on our favorite places to eat in Florence!

Christmastime culinary traditions

CHRISTMASTIME
CULINARY
TRADITIONS

With Christmas just around the corner, my family – like so many others both here and in Italy – is starting to make preparations for all of the traditional foods that will be devoured during the holiday season. This is a time for friends and family to come together and cook and eat and drink and cook and eat and drink some more. That’s actually pretty much all we do.

In my family we have a time-honored tradition that, over the years, has come to be known as dough night. This is the night – which occurs about a week before Christmas – when all of our traditional fried specialties get made. From the cavizungidd (fried ravioli stuffed with a chocolate/chestnut/cooked wine filling) to the pettole (fried savory dough), it is a night that brings us back home to our southern Italian roots. Even though my nonna is no longer with us, we still follow all of her hand-written recipes from her black and white composition notebook and criticize each other’s techniques, just like she would have done! It’s a great night and a great time for everyone involved! 

What are some of the Christmas traditions you are looking forward to most?

Arrivederci,
Teresa 

Italian Extravaganza 2018

ITALIAN
EXTRAVAGANZA 2018

The time is quickly approaching for the 2018 installment of Italian extravaganza! This year’s 5 week adventure will take us home – Basilicata – for 3 weeks and into Umbria for 2 weeks. The schedule is packed with amazing day trips into beautiful little towns, some better know than others, but all amazing in their own ways.

As always, I am most excited about all of the food we will be eating and all of the Aperol Spritzes and wine we will be drinking! We will definitely be returning to some of our favorite places but we will also be branching out and exploring some new establishments as well. 

I will be posting tons of pictures and stories as the trip unfolds. I hope to inspire you all to visit Italy soon, but more so to branch out and explore not just the areas of Italy that are well-known, but especially the ones that are not so well-known. That’s where the magic really happens!

Arrivederci,
Teresa 

Italian Easter traditions

ITALIAN
EASTER TRADITIONS

There are so many wonderful traditions in Italy associated with the Easter holiday. There are many famous processions all throughout Italy that re-enact the Catholic tradition of the Via Crucis, or way of the cross. Different towns have them on different days, starting with the Thursday before Easter through the Saturday. Then on Easter Sunday friends and families gather together to enjoy some traditional Easter specialties. Most Easter meals revolve around some kind of lamb dish, although there are many variations depending on the region.

In my family, the Easter meal has always traditionally started with homemade ravioli. But these are no ordinary ravioli. The tradition from our hometown is to serve both sweet and savory ravioli as a first course. The savory ravioli are regular ricotta-filled ravioli. The sweet ravioli have something added to the ricotta to make them, well, sweet. Both types are then served with tomato sauce and grated cheese on top. Everyone in my family has their own specific ratio of sweet-to-savory ravioli that they like. Personally, I’m all about the sweet, with only a couple of the savory just to taste them.

As the sweet ravioli are a time-honored family secret, I won’t be sharing a recipe. But I can tell you one thing for sure…they’re amazingly delicious! So I recommend either procuring an invitation to a Southern Italian family’s Easter meal, or planning an Easter trip to Southern Italy!

So as with so many other times of year, Easter is yet another fantastic time to visit Italy, both for its cultural traditions as well as its culinary ones. An Italian Easter trip should, therefore, be high on your list so you can experience all of these wonderful traditions for yourself!

In the meantime… Buona Pasqua!

Arrivederci,
Teresa